Capri – Villa San Michele
“I want my house to be open to sun and wind and the voice of the sea, like a Greek temple, and light, light, light everywhere”
The words of Alex Munthe, Swedish physician, when he fell in love with the idyllic island of Capri off the Amalfi Coast.
He wanted to create a home for the soul, because
“the soul needs more space than the body”.
Villa San Michele, the home he created, is surrounded by an impressive garden, colonnades, pergolas and cypress trees with a view that extends forever. Behind the villa, in the Barbarossa mountain, Axel Munthe created a sanctuary for migratory birds. A place to rest on their journey from one continent to another.
Henry James, who visited the villa, wrote that it is “a creation of the most fantastic beauty, poetry and inutility that I have ever seen clustered together.”
Ravello, Villas Cimbrone & Rufolo
The two other stunning villas we’ll visit during our May 2019 tour to Puglia and the Amalfi coast are located in one of my favourite places on earth, Ravello. Perched high above the Mediterranean Sea, where the perfume of lemon blossoms and the spectacular scenery combine to seduce the visitor. Here, we’ll find the Villa Cimbrone with its expansive gardens and dramatic views from the belvedere, known as the Terrace of Infinity.
Terrace of Infinity, Villa Cimbrone, Ravello
Its origins date back to the 11th century. The villa and gardens were extensively renovated by Lord Grimthorpe in the early 20th century. It became a popular retreat for London’s famed Bloomsbury Group. Other notable guess included Winston Churchill and D.H. Lawrence. It’s a view , once seen, impossible to forget.
Next, Villa Rufolo, the historical and cultural centre of the beautiful town of Ravello. Built in the 13th century the villa and its owner featured in Boccaccio’s Decamaron, published in 1353.
Scottish botanist, Sir Francis Neville Reid, fell in love with its Moorish towers and expansive views and in 1851 began an extensive renovation of its rooms and gardens.
View from Villa Rufolo, Ravello
Visiting the villa in 1880 Richard Wagner was so inspired by the gardens he lingered in Ravello long enough to complete the second act of his opera Parsifal. The spirit of Wagner remains as Ravello has become known as the ‘city of music’. It hosts an annual summer concert series on a stage built jutting out over the Mediterranean Sea with the rugged Amalfi Coast below.
The Amalfi Coast deserves to be on everyone’s bucket-list. Why wait? Join us in May and discover for yourself the enchantments of these three stunningly beautiful villas and the towns in which they are located. Space for the soul, indeed.
New York City where one visit is never enough. When you’ve ticked off all the ‘must-see’ sights it’s time to go beyond the tourist hot spots. Here are some of my favorite things to do and see. This is a city constantly on the move but the list below contains some perennial favorites that survive the test of time. In no particular order …
Don’t Tell Mama amazingly talented singing waiters and bar staff. My preference is the piano bar but you also have the choice of a restaurant or cabaret . W46th Street between 8th and 9th Avenue.
Brooklyn Bridge Why not walk one way and catch the ferry back to Wall Street. Under the bridge check out the coal oven pizzas at Juliana’s at 19th Old Fulton Street and the Best Ice Cream on Front Street.
Chelsea Market & High-Line Park It’s great to see the old overhead rail structure re-made into a park and Chelsea market the local residential area are worth exploring
Chelsea Harbour Line When your feet need a rest head to Pier 62 and join the Around Manhattan Architecture tour. In 2 hours 45 minutes you’ll circumnavigate the entire island of Manhattan and be introduced to the history and architectural highlights of each of the Boroughs.
Red Rooster Harlem Perfect place for Sunday brunch with great music and traditional southern style food. Work off the meal with a stroll around the neighbourhood which has been undergoing a renaissance with many of the traditional brownstones being restored. 125th & Lennox Avenue
The Met Cloisters Located on 4 acres overlooking the Hudson River in northern Manhattans Fort Tryon Park this museum is dedicated to the art, architecture and gardens of Medieval Europe.
The Frick Housed in one of NYC’s few remaining Gilded mansions this relatively small museum is rich in Old Masters and European sculptures.. You’ll find works by Bellini, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Goya and Whistler.
Russ & Daughters Cafe Known for its ‘haimishness’ which is a Yiddish word expressing warmth, comfort, authenticity, conviviality and lack of pretence is a perfect place to eat at any time of the day.
Greenwich Village with Context Travel join a local walking tour with one of the guides from Context Travel. They specialize in local tours for ‘the intellectually curious traveller’. The guides are full of knowledge and great local anecdotes.
Weekend Brunch Try SOHO or West Village. The hot spots change but Sunday brunch remains the most important meal of the weekend. An accompanying glass of champagne is de rigueur.
Tenement Museum An 1863 preserved tenement brings to life the stories of the immigrants who made this city what it is today. 97 & 103 Orchard Street, Lower East Side
Off-Broadway With seats to the hit shows becoming more and more expensive why not try your luck at spotting the next big thing at one of the Off-Broadway theatres.
McCorleys Old Ale House Decisions on what to drink made easy. They only serve two kinds of Ale – light or dark. With sawdust on the floor this is NYC’s oldest continually operated saloon. Everyone from Abe Lincoln to John Lennon have ventured in.
And there’s more. NYC is the home of cocktails and there’s no shortage of bars to choose from to watch these cocktail artists at work. Up for a challenge, visit a Speakeasy if you can find the secret entrance. Please Don’t Tell is entered via a phone box at 113 St Mark’s Place or visit Angel’s Share at 8 Stuyvesant Street in the East Village. Stuyvesant Street is one of the oldest streets in NYC borough of Manhattan often used in movie shoots depicting ‘old New York’. If jazz is your thing then NYC is the place to be with a number of excellent jazz clubs including the Blue Note Jazz Club, West Village.
Ajijic small group tours
I fell in love with, Ajijic, this little village beside Lake Chapala on my first visit some years ago. With its friendly local and ex-pat population, artistic community, some great restaurants, wonderful views and an almost perfect climate – what’s not to love. Above is a work by local artist, Efren Gonzalez whose stunning murals can be enjoyed as you wander the cobble-stone streets of Ajijic. Click on this link and read a first-time visitor’s impressions and why they decided to make Ajijic their new home.
Mexico is an endlessly fascinating country and should be on everyone’s bucket list who love history, culture, art, traditional artisan work, stunning and varied scenery, fascinating colonial towns, maya pyramids with some amazing murals,an extensive biodiversity and a friendly and welcoming population . It’s why I go back every year and have made it my mission to introduce as many people as possible to the joys of Mexico.
From the images of Montmartre nightlife and the iconic artistic posters of Toulouse Lautrec in Albi to the home of Salvador Dali in Catalonia via a small medieval town home to the most important movement of modern painting of the twentieth century.
The Palais de la Berbie, once the home of the powerful bishops of Albi, houses the largest collection of the work of Toulouse Lautrec.
The mild climate and golden light of the medieval town of Ceret proved irresistible to painters such as Picasso, Chagall and Matisse. The Museum of Modern Art boasts a wonderful selection of some of the major artists of the twentieth century.
Across the mountains into Spain and Cadaques where we’ll find the somewhat bizarre and labyrinthian structure that Dali called home and was his main place of work and inspiration for 50 years. The home, now a museum, is packed full of personal objects and work.
Add in the castles and fortifications from the Catholic and French Crusades against the Cathars, the wonderful food and wine on both sides of the border, hill top medieval towns and an exploration of the region from the mountains to the sea and the result is a very special one of a kind small group tour.
10 not to be missed highlights of ‘the Village’.
On its way to being gentrified Greenwich Village, artists’ haven, Bohemian capital and the birthplace of the 60’s counterculture is still home to some of the best music, food and architecture.
Home to some of the city’s best if over-priced restaurants you’ll also find great cafes filled with locals enjoying a coffee or lazy weekend brunch.
Here are some highlights of ‘the Village’ as it’s commonly known.
- Stroll the streets – West 10th has been described as the most beautiful block in the city with its elegant architecture. Or for the more ghoulishly inclined you’ll find the most haunted house with 22 ghosts the most famous of which is Mark Twain at 14 West 10th
The small Jones Street is where the cover was shot for Bob Dylan’s album ‘The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan.
- Ready for a snack check out La Lanterna di Vittorio at 129 MacDougal Street and if you’re in the mood wander to the bar next door and listen to some jazz.
- Talking of jazz, the Village is home to two of the best – The Village Vanguard and the Blue Note.
- For foodies the stretch of Bleecker Street between 6th and 7th Avenue is a magnet for gourmet food lovers.
- Washington Square Park is the place to go to relax in the sunshine and watch the passing parade or maybe play a game of chess in the north west corner of the park. It’s famous as the home of the 1961 Folk singers protest against an ordinance prohibiting singing in the park.
- Better than karaoke – head down to Marie’s Crisis at 59 Grove Street – a piano bar where you can join in the sing-a-long to all your favourite show tunes.
- Greenwich Village is home to the Barrow Street Theatre where you can check out the next potential big hit at an Off-Broadway show.
- Head to 51-53 Christopher Street. Barack Obama has just announced this small park as a national park to commemorate the historic events at the Stonewall Inn across the street which launched the Gay Liberation Movement and now home to sculptures created by George Segal.
- There’s no shortage of independent bookstores to explore many housing cafes where you can while away some time catching up on the latest titles.
- In the mood for more entertainment then check out Café Wha – the original stomping ground of Bob Dylan, Jimi Hendrix, Bruce Springsteen and Kool and the Gang. Today it is still showcasing some of the greatest of the NYC bands.
Once the home of hippies, beats and punks it’s an area ripe for increasing gentrification. So, don’t wait, see it while it’s spirit is still alive and kicking.
Here are some not to be missed sights and experiences.
- 96-98 St Marks Place. These tenements were used for the cover of Led Zeppelin’s ‘Physical Graffiti’. St Marks Place is the ‘face’ of the East Village and a good place to start to gain a feel for the place and its history.
- Two Michelin-starred restaurant Mamofuku Ko is located here when you’re in the mood for a culinary treat.
- The Merchant’s House Museum built in 1832 offers a view of life in the 19th century for the well-heeled.
- McSorkey’s Old Ale House has been in business for more than 150 years and served the likes of Abraham Lincoln and John Lennon. You’ll need a taste for house-brewed light or dark ale as this is all they serve.
- For something more stylish head to Angel’s Share, a speakeasy style parlour tucked away behind an unmarked door inside Japanese restaurant Village Yokocho and serving some of the city’s best cocktails.
- Interested in vintage fashion then wander down to 9th street between Avenue A and 2nd Avenue where you’ll find several small but well-stocked boutiques.
- Can’t resist a good ice-cream then you’ll want to try the some of the unique soft-serve offerings from the Big Gay Ice Cream Shop. Sea salt and toasted curry coconut anyone?
- A seven-storey stack of off-kilter ethereal white boxes houses the New Museum of Contemporary Art with a mission to showcase new art and new ideas.
- Don’t miss the Lower East Side Tenement Museum re-creating life in the tenements at the turn of the 20th century. The tenements provided a home and workplace to waves of immigrants all pursuing the dream of life in the new world.
Walk across the Brooklyn Bridge from Manhattan and you’ll end up in DUMBO – Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass. This relatively small and walkable neighbourhood punches above its weight in must do experiences.
Here are a few of my favourites:
1. Whether you’re a pizza lover or not Juliani’s owned by the undisputed king of the coal-oven baked pizza, Patsy Grimaldi is definitely worth a stop for lunch.
2. Being a chocaholic I can’t go by master chocolate maker, Jacques Torres. If you’re game the ‘wicked’ hot chocolate comes spiked with ancho and chipotle chilli peppers.
3. Regardless of the temperature give yourself an ice cream fix at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory.
4. You’ll think you’ve been transported to France when you taste the croissants and baguettes from owner and pastry chef, Herve Poussot, in his bakery, Almondine.
5. For fashion and accessories head to Trunk, all designed locally and part of the made in Brooklyn, sold in Brooklyn movement.
6. Chamber music fans can enjoy free one-hour recitals on Saturday afternoon at Bargemusic – a decommissioned coffee barge. Music with a view.
7. An art gallery not to miss is Masters Project, specialising in relatively unknown local and international artists.
Could this be the year the dream comes true? Having spent the last 2 out of 3 Christmas’s in New York visiting friends I decided on the spur of the moment it was time to head back there again and this time to share.
I’ve booked a hotel and put together a fantastic range of options to make the most of this magical time in New York. It will be first in best dressed as the tour is limited to a group of 6 people ready to experience the best this city has to offer.
We’ll discover the villages of Manhattan from Harlem to Brooklyn, SOHO to Greenwich and Chelsea. We’ll be experiencing NYC like a local.
Highlights will include a visit to Harlem for a traditional brunch and gospel performance; a walk over the Brooklyn Bridge to discover the exciting new precinct of DUMBO; shop in SOHO as well as 5th Avenue and discover the amazing discounts on offer at this time of year; visit the Christmas markets; check out the shows On and Off Broadway; head down town for a walking tour of Greenwich and the East Village and have lunch at the famous Katz’s diner.
With no single supplement and a superior queen size room in the Club Quarters Hotel opposite the Rockefeller Center this is the best way to experience NYC whether you’re a first time visitor or, like me, can never get enough of this exciting and vibrant city.
A group of women in a small town in the Mexican State of Guerrero is working to preserve their ancient handcrafts. Using the traditional techniques of hand-spinning, dyeing and weaving they create the most beautifully embroidered and colourful huipiles, (highly decorated blouses) as well as shawls, table runners, napkins and cushions. All feature the traditional designs of the region.
In 1969 a co-operative was founded in the town of Xochislahuaca with a mission to rescue, preserve and promote the ancient handcraft techniques of spinning, dyeing and hand-weaving.
In November they have been invited to attend the Feria Maestros del Arte in Chapala, Jalisco to demonstrate their skills and display and sell these stunning and highly collectible handcrafted textile products.
We are really excited about attending the Feria again this year. It’s fantastic to be able to meet these and other artisans who are all working to preserve their ancient skills.
With no intermediaries and being able to buy direct not only guarantees extraordinarily good bargains it also contributes to support these artisans, their families and villages and their traditional handcraft skills which would otherwise disappear. Mexico is a vibrant and exciting destination and Ajijic, where we stay, is home to a lively group of ex-pats and a vibrant artistic community. Guaranteed to surprise and delight. Easily accessible with flights to Guadalajara from L.A. where you will be met and hosted for 9 gloriously relaxing days. It’s slow travel at its very best.
With a population of less than 5 million this small country positioned between Nicaragua and Panama and the oceans of the Pacific and Caribbean punches well above its weight in the world.
There’s much that our Governments could learn from this hard working, friendly and sociable people.
Here are just 8 reasons why they have so much to be happy about:
- A 96% functional literacy rate across their population.
- The first nation in the world to source 100% of its electricity needs from renewable energy for 75 days in a row.
- A well-developed health system.
- A stable democratic government for the last 80 years.
- A free and effective system of public education.
- No standing army and the defence budget re-directed to pay for welfare, healthcare, pensions, and investment in sustainability and in becoming a world leader in eco-tourism.
- Life expectancy of 82 for women and 78 for men with more people over the age of 90 than in any other country in the world.
- Costa Rica requires a gender balance among candidates in elections for public office.
All this before we mention the extraordinarily rich diversity of flora and fauna, the rain forests, volcanoes, rivers, beaches and natural resources all safeguarded by national parks and reserves.
This is a destination not to be missed. The itinerary for our intimate and unforgettable small group tour to this magic country can be found by clicking here.
If you’re interested in folk art, traditional artisan work, style and colour or interior design then you wouldn’t want to miss the Feria Maestros del Arte being held in Chapala in Mexico. Take a look at a selection of artisans who will be featured at the Fair this November. Our fascinating cultural immersion tour to the small neighbouring village of Ajijic includes access to the Feria and an opportunity to meet the artists. The itinerary can be found by clicking here.
Don’t miss the additional article by Marianne Carlson talking about the history of the Feria, why she felt compelled to establish it and the volunteers who make it possible for these artisans to continue to maintain these traditions and earn enough money to support their families and villages.
Every year the Feria is proud to present grandes maestros (great masters) who have been featured in the landmark publications by Fomento Cultural Banamex.
José Abraham Ruiz (Mexico) – finely carved
bone miniatures. “The Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art” in which Don Roberto Ruiz
(father) is featured.
Alfonso Castillo Orta Family – (Puebla) Trees of Life, ceramic figures. “Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
José Juan García Aguilar – (Oaxaca) ceramic figures. His famous grandmother, Josefina Aguilar – featured in the book “Great Masters of MexicanFolk Art” will also be attending the show.
Juana Gómez Ramírez – (Chiapas) –intricate ceramic jaguars, pots, and other ceramic items. “Great Masters of Latin American Folk Art.”
Manuel Jerónimo Reyes – (Michocán) famous black ceramics from
Santa Fe de la Laguna. ”
Great Masters of Latin American Folk Art.”
Nicasio Pajarito González – (Jalisco) the famousbarro canelo (cinnamon) pottery of Tonalá.
“Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
Cesar Torres Ramírez –(Puebla) talavera pottery.
“Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
La Flor de Xochistlahuaca – (Guerrero) fabulous hand-woven garments. The grand maestra, Florentina López de Jesus (1939-2014), who began this cooperativa is featured in the book”Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art” and “Great Masters of Latin America.”
Maleni Cruz Uc – (Campeche) handwoven Panama hats from huano or jipe (palm fibers). Her grandfather isfeatured in the book “Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
Ofelia Madariaga & Gloria Leticia Villajuana – (Yucatán) hammocks. “Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
Magdiel Garcia Hernandez – (Mexico) hand-etched glass.
“Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
Felix Bautista Martínez – (Oaxaca) silveryalalagcrosses and necklaces. “Great Masters of Oaxacan Folk Art.
Gorgonio Candelario Castro – (Colima)traditional hand-carved wood masks. His father was featured in the
book” Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
José Ojeda – (Jalisco) world-famous handcrafted knives. “Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art”, and “Great Masters of Latin America”.
Pedro Ortega Lozano – (Mexico) traditional papel picado as well as cut paper work done in foil. “Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”
The History of the Feria Maestros del Arte
By Marianne Carlson
Chapala, Jalisco, Mexico
Feria Maestros del Arte is an art show conceived from a trip in 2002 when a friend and I took a “four-day-adventure-mega-shopping trip” to 16 artisan villages between Ajijic and Pátzcuaro, Michoácan.
Clearly, most of the incredible art we were seeing was not being sold anywhere in our area, because as collectors, we would have seen it. Many artists live in remote areas and it is difficult and expensive for them to attend art shows to sell their work. Often, sales are confined to the tianguis (outdoor market) in their puebla (town) or, if they get lucky, to collectors (like me) who manage to track them down at their homes.
I felt strongly that these talented, creative people needed a continuous outlet to sell their work. Mexico’s art is disappearing because artists cannot sustain a living on their art alone. The thought of this trend continuing was more than my heart could bear — something had to be done. I decided to organize a venue where artists could sell their work and keep all the money they made—no booth fee or percentage of sales would be charged, and they would have no lodging expenses because of our “Hosting Program” where they are placed with local families for the three days they are at the show. We would also pay for their transportation. The first Feria was in 2002 and I invited 13 artists.
A legal Mexican and U.S. non-profit organization, Feria Maestros del Arte is organized by an army of volunteers; there are no paid personnel.
In 2016, our 15th anniversary, we will be hosting 85 artists from all corners of Mexico—Chihuahua, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Mexico, Hidalgo, Puebla, Veracruz, Michoacán, Jalisco, Guanajuato, Guerrero, Yucatán, Sonora and Campeche. They will come together in Chapala, Jalisco, Mexico to exhibit and sell their art to collectors, galleries, museum buyers and the general public.
With much of the cultural diversity of Mexico disappearing, our mission is to facilitate regional and international awareness of the plight of endangered Mexican folk art. Toward fostering the preservation and development of this art, now and in the future, the organization provides a yearly exhibition venue for folk artists to sell their work to galleries, collectors and museums. We further strive, through collaboration with the Mexican organizations and government, as well as entities outside Mexico, to preserve not just the art itself, but the culture producing it, by giving the artists a viable means to sell their work using their traditional skills both in Mexico and abroad.
Educating the public to the plight of Mexican indigenous and folk art is a high priority of Feria Maestros del Arte. Bringing these artists to the public’s attention increases knowledge of Mexico’s history and heritage issues. Our project enhances the identity and traditional values of Mexico and contributes to the rescue and preservation of its art.
I consider myself to be one of the luckiest “transplants” living in Mexico! For over 35 years, I have traveled throughout Mexico seeking adventure and experiencing the spirit and essence of this country I now call home for the last 19 years. However, since moving to Lake Chapala, the focus and reasons for my viajes (trips) now have a purpose beyond adventure itself — locating specific Mexican folk artists. Wow! Imagine meeting and getting to know some of the finest artists in Mexico. I am proud to call many of these maestros (masters) friends and part of my extended Mexican family.
If you are adventurous and would enjoy seeing Mexican folk art at its best, consider traveling to Mexico for Feria Maestros del Arte next November 11-13, 2016. I can assure you, this is a very safe area of Mexico. It is also one of the most beautiful areas of Mexico situated on Mexico’s largest lake, Lake Chapala, which is about one hour south of Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city. We have some of the finest restaurants you may ever have experienced.
See you at the Feria!
For the dates and detailed itinerary of our Cultural Immersion into Old Mexico tour which includes attending the Feria and meeting the artists click here.